Moderator: Tim White
brrrdog wrote:I did get a lot of info from this post but now I need some of the basics as far as trees go.
Right now I have two trees as options. One of them is easy from a rigging perspective but probably not my first choice. It's a very big tree and it has a bit of a lean so the attachement point (so far I've liked the cable in garden hose idea) could be very close to the trunk and the rope would still be far enough away from the base of the trunk to be free hanging. However, it's up on a steep hill that really isn't what I consider a usable part of my yard.
My second option is in a nice flat corner but the tree is straight up. In order to get the rope away from the trunk I'd either have to put the rope on the branch a few feet away from the trunk. Or I would have to secure the rope around the trunk up a little higher (using another branch to keep it from slipping) and then use my original branch just to redirect the rope. I suppose a third option would be a combination of the two - back-tie to a point farther up the tree to reinforce the branch and then just tie directly to the branch.
Can somebody push me in a direction? I suppose any rules of thumb for tree branch strength might help as a start but maybe that has too many variables? Let me know if any of my plans aren't clear and maybe I'll draw a pic.[/url]
Stridergdm wrote:It sounds like you intend to hang the rope from the tree itself?
I suggest putting it over a branch and running an end to an attachment point near the ground (say another tree).
Tie it off with a munter hitch or use a rack with a hard tie-off. This way if you get into trouble, someone can lower you to the ground.
NickfromWI wrote:Stridergdm wrote:It sounds like you intend to hang the rope from the tree itself?
I suggest putting it over a branch and running an end to an attachment point near the ground (say another tree).
Tie it off with a munter hitch or use a rack with a hard tie-off. This way if you get into trouble, someone can lower you to the ground.
Keep in mind that if you rig as described above, you'll be doubling the load on the anchor point at the top of the tree. Tying in straight to the branch will lessen your chance of busting the top out of a tree.
There's a lot more to rigging a tree than just the thickness of the branch. You have to consider the species of tree, health of the tree/limb, how far from the trunk your intended tie in point will be, etc.
It might be worth offering $50 for a local certified arborist to come by and recommend the strongest branches.
I would hope most vertical cavers can select an appropriate tree limb and safely rig it for practice - especially in their own yard
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