by Scott McCrea » Jul 15, 2006 9:13 pm
While I am biased, I have done a lot of research and testing the durability of materials and cave packs.
Material abrasion durability: here's the list from most durable to not as durable:
Molded Polypropylene (hard shell boxes like Pelican and Otter Cases)
Ballistic Nylon (Lost Creek and others)
Polyurethane (Swaygo)
Shazam (Howies Harnesses Vampire Pack)
PVC (GGG and others)
1000 Denier Nylon (less expensive packs)
Pack Cloth (cheap book bags and fanny packs)
For reference, Polyurethane (PU) is about 4 times more abrasion resistant than PVC. Ballistic Nylon and PU are close with a slight edge to the Ballistic. Of course, hard shell boxes would make a terrible cave pack but they are very durable.
Construction durability: two basic ways to construct a cave pack–sewing and welding. Sewing is inexpensive, easily modified, and quite durable when done by a skilled seamstress with good equipment and materials. Forms a non-waterproof joint. Welding is basically heating two pieces of "weldable" material and pressing them together so the molecules get mixed up and stick together. This forms an extremely strong and durable, waterproof joint.
Component durability: Every component on a cave pack has potential to fail. Every seam, joint, buckle, clip, pocket, flap, strap, connector, grommet, snap, zipper, draw cord, tether, handle, bell, whistle, etc could fail. Fewer components means fewer potential failures. Simple equals durable.
Warranty and support: Anything you take into a cave will fail eventually. Find out what the warranty and repair options are. A pack is more durable if you can get it fixed.
IMO, there are many other things that should also be considered when choosing a cave pack. Basically, any pack that is made to be taken in caves is pretty darn durable. Choose the one/s that fits the rest of your needs the best.