Moderator: Tim White
I read all published accident reports and do not remember anyone losing control on a climb. I talk to non cavers about rappelling and they do not understand when I say I am more concerned on rappel than on climbs.NZcaver wrote:Wow. That guy was very lucky not to be hurt.
I frequently hear climbers say "rappelling is the most dangerous part of climbing." Seems they may be correct, especially with inadequate training, poor technique, and a desire to let go of the rope. Very interesting too that the Autobloc / French wrap failed to grip on the wet rope. Thankfully he was wearing a HELMET which may have saved his life.
.I see he was also not leaning back on his harness and letting gravity take him down. He was standing vertical on slick rock, and down climbing while rappelling. That’s always a recipe for disaster. Lean back, lean back, lean back.
Wow. That guy was very lucky not to be hurt.
I frequently hear climbers say "rappelling is the most dangerous part of climbing." Seems they may be correct, especially with inadequate training, poor technique, and a desire to let go of the rope. Very interesting too that the Autobloc / French wrap failed to grip on the wet rope. Thankfully he was wearing a HELMET which may have saved his life.
Chads93GT wrote:He specifically said it was an autoblock, not a french wrap. Similar yes, but thats like saying a prusik or a bachman knot. both can be used to climb, but they are different.
Bob Thrun wrote:TinY wrote: As for the history of the name "French Wrap", I coined this term after learning of this method of self belay from Van Bergen in his reply to a post of mine on this discussion in 2000.
It is unfortunate that TinY invented another name for a hitch that already had three names.
Machard -- Geroges Marbach told me that it was invented by Machard, a French mountaineer...
Autobloc, autoblock, or auto block -- The generic French term for hitches that can be used to grip a rope is "noeuds autobloquant". I can imagine the conversation between an English-speaking climber and a French climber: "What do you call this knot?", "Autoblocquant"...
French Prusik -- I can think of five different hitches that are called "French Prusik". Autoblock and French prusik are both used in climbing books and magazines. Sometimes I think one term is more popular and simetimes the other.
NZcaver wrote:Wow. That guy was very lucky not to be hurt.
I frequently hear climbers say "rappelling is the most dangerous part of climbing." Seems they may be correct, especially with inadequate training, poor technique, and a desire to let go of the rope. Very interesting too that the Autobloc / French wrap failed to grip on the wet rope. Thankfully he was wearing a HELMET which may have saved his life.
Chads93GT wrote: i stood in the bottom of the slippery sink, grabbed the rope, rigged my rack and immediately slipped. I fell into the pit and as the slack came out of the rope I swung violently under the undercut, slamming into the opposite wall of the pit.
Anonymous_Coward wrote:Chads93GT wrote: i stood in the bottom of the slippery sink, grabbed the rope, rigged my rack and immediately slipped. I fell into the pit and as the slack came out of the rope I swung violently under the undercut, slamming into the opposite wall of the pit.
Dude!!! Why was there slack in the rope? Rigging in with slack above you is a very dangerous habit that exposes you and your gear to big fall forces. Maybe I misunderstood?
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