French Wrap Usage (for users only please)

[brrrdog]

I'm interested in the different experiences and setups of those that use the french wrap (for a discussion of for or against it please use one of the many other threads ;)).

I'm currently using a 6mm cord attached with a carabiner thru my leg loop. I've not stiched anything permanent yet since I'm still experimenting with placement. I did try all sorts of acrobatics to verify that the FR can't get into the rack. So far I've put the rope over my right hip on all rappels. My rack is a straight eye (petzl)

After much practice I finally got to do a few pits in alabama this summer, and over all, I love the FR as did all that used it in my group. However I have some fine tuning type questions that others may be able to answer or maybe share your own experience or setup.

So one thing I'm not wild about that it's quite difficult to add and remove bars without stopping. While I've done nothing huge yet (160 is my biggest) and I rappel slow, I'd still like to try to follow the no-stopping rule in case I ever get the opportunity to do a longer, rack melting drop ;). With the my setup, I found that I had to stop, use my control hand to pull the rope up and away, and then swing in the bar. I'd turn the rack 90 degrees if I thought that would help but I'm not sure it would. Randyrn's between the legs system (look here http://forums.caves.org/viewtopic.php?t ... c&start=15) seems like it would give a better side to side range so that bars can be added. Any agreement there? Are you committing to always running the rope between the legs at that point?

How about cord diameter? I picked 6mm after reading this study http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Ge ... ._273.html However I see that most use a 7mm or even 8mm cord. Has anybody experimented with different cord sizes to see how the feel and react compared to each other?

[Carl Amundson]

You might want to check out the article "An introduction to the French Wrap" from the BATS 2003 newsletter:
http://cave.pure.net/~bats/downloads/ne ... st2003.pdf

It may answer some of your questions.

[Scott McCrea]

I don't use a FW, but I can offer some advice on some of the things you mentioned.

It is fine to stop during a rappel of any length. If you are going at a reasonable speed, heat is not big problem. If heat were a concern, all you have to do is rappel very slow for a few feet, introducing cold rope to the warm bars. Then you can stop with your mind at ease.

Turning your rack 90 degrees probably won't help adding/removing bars. You need to be able to move the rope away from the bar you are manipulating and having it tethered to your hip makes this more difficult.

Smaller diameter cord will grab a rope harder that larger cord. 3mm cord will lock solid on to 11mm rope but it's hard to release and not very strong. 9mm cord can have a hard time bending enough to get a good grip on 11mm rope, but it's plenty strong. The stiffer the cord, the less easy it will bend and grip the rope. So, a stiff 6mm may only grip as well as a flexible 8mm cord. It boils down to finding something that works for you. I think 6mm cord is plenty strong for a FW.

Nice article, thanks for the link!

[wyandottecaver]

I cant comment on FR. but as to choosing cord size scott's comment about cord and rope variability is crucial! in doing lots of work with various ropes and cords for prussic hitches there is tremendous variability in brands even within a given diameter. I've found mammut brand cord to be prefereble in my situations but "tinkering" is a necessity when using cord hitches to arrest travel on a rope.

[brrrdog]

thanks junkman - but I dare to say that I've probably read every piece of info that presently exists in the Internet regarding the french wrap (although I'd be happy to be proven wrong)! How else would somebody come up with an obscure study of common friction hitches :).

Scott:
I suppose you're right about heat. At the same time there's something nice about a smooth decent. It's a unique feeling to have a room lit only by headlamp slowly expand around you. Needing two hands felt a little 'clunky'. Then again maybe I was trying TOO hard not to stop. I'll keep your advice in mind and see if it helps.
Regarding the 90 degree eye, I meant that to be a lead in to Randyrm's setup but reading it again I sure wasn't very clear. I do understand that changing the orientation of my rack and still running the rope over my hip isn't going to help, but thanks for pointing that out.

Regarding diameter:
Thanks for pointing out the relationship for between diameter difference and locking ability of the hitch. I chose 6mm because that study showed it to have the greatest success over the greatest variance of wraps and rope diameter. I was wondering if anybody that has used more than one size had a preference and why.

That does remind me - I did notice once that when my french wrap was wet, the weight of the water held it down in the unlocked position. I was rappelling pretty slow and I'd guess that it still would have caught but didn't test that guess. I'll have to head to the tree and test that out. Any body else notice that?