Moderator: Tim White
Starting with gear in pack, ascend 10 meters, change over to rappel, descend,
change back to ascent, down-climb.
chh wrote:I keep my rap device on the right hand side. Both my cowstails along with my upper ascender go on my left. I have a Petzl omni-link which has the gate opening on the right hand side.
firemedic1015 wrote:chh wrote:I keep my rap device on the right hand side. Both my cowstails along with my upper ascender go on my left. I have a Petzl omni-link which has the gate opening on the right hand side.
Personal preference is ok as long as it doesn't compromise safety. The rack is generally placed on the left side of the croll from the user's point of view so that it cant get jammed into an open croll. The half round/omni should always close on the left so that the rope cant accidentally open it by rubbing on the lock while climbing. Most everyone that I cave with has their micro rack attached to the omni with a maillon that they never open. The rack (and everything else) stays in place at all times.
Speaking of attaching the rack... It should be attached with a maillon not a carabiner. If you attach it with a carabiner it can get gate loaded and fail with body weight. See video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fz0c1rC_88
firemedic1015 wrote:The half round/omni should always close on the left so that the rope cant accidentally open it by rubbing on the lock while climbing.
Speaking of attaching the rack... It should be attached with a maillon not a carabiner. If you attach it with a carabiner it can get gate loaded and fail with body weight. See video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fz0c1rC_88
chh wrote:However, if your height estimates are correct, and your rebelays are rigged well, probably the thing you'll have to work on the most is down climbing the last 15 feet. I'll throw 5 minutes out there as a "good" time.
GroundquestMSA wrote:How long do you imagine it would take you to finish this excercise? I should be concerned if this takes more than how long?
Scott McCrea wrote:firemedic1015 wrote:The half round/omni should always close on the left so that the rope cant accidentally open it by rubbing on the lock while climbing.
And, you should turn it around, to close on the right, when you rappel so the rope can't accidentally open it by rubbing. I believe this is another myth. Anyone ever see it happen?
NZcaver wrote:Jonah - good job with the practice setup. Reminds me a little of the NCRC entrance skills test, but with a rebelay thrown in. As previously noted the NCRC time includes putting your gear on, and there is good reason for that. In the past some students have turned up to do their entrance skills test with brand new vertical gear and no knowledge of how to assemble it. D'oh!
firemedic1015 wrote:Speaking of attaching the rack... It should be attached with a maillon not a carabiner. If you attach it with a carabiner it can get gate loaded and fail with body weight. See video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fz0c1rC_88
trogman wrote:firemedic1015 wrote:Speaking of attaching the rack... It should be attached with a maillon not a carabiner. If you attach it with a carabiner it can get gate loaded and fail with body weight. See video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fz0c1rC_88
I always attach my rack with a carabiner, and have never had it load against the gate. It is a simple matter- if you start your rappel with the rack properly loaded on the carabiner, it will stay that way as long as your weight is on it.
It is another matter entirely when we are talking about ascenders, which, when used as part of a climbing system, are alternately either loaded or unloaded. In that case, if your attachment to your carabiner is loose, it could easily slip to a position where it is side-loaded.
Trogman
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