Lifespan of the new dyneema-reinforced Petzl Superavanti

[Jeff Bartlett]

edit: please note, these photos are of the OLD (2010) version of Superavanti, not the new one. I am seeking input from those who have been using the newer model, and potentially are on their second or third caving harness like I am.

Have any of you put a good year ortwo's abuse into a current-generation Superavanti harness yet? My Omni has chewed through the protective webbing on my older-version Superavanti, exposing the load-bearing portion of the maillon attachment. Starting in 2011, Petzl started using dyneema (spectra) for this wear attachment fabric as well as the gear loops, which I'm assuming extends the life of this harness component considerably.

Details: I started using this harness in May, 2010. I'm estimating a bit, but that looks to be 103 cave trips, 745 hours of caving, 375 vertical pitches and 26,195 feet of rope. By comparison, my PMI Pit Viper lasted 121 pitches and 11,081 feet of rope; the Pit Viper ultimately failed in the same spot, the maillon attachments became too worn. I am 175 pounds and frog (almost) exclusively.





In all, I've been very pleased with the Superavanti, and am struggling to choose between the new dyneema-supplemented model or the 80g-heavier Fractio when the time comes to retire this one. And whoever thought up that wear-protector piece of webbing at the back buckle is a genius; wearing a harness through multi-drops all the time sure does chew up the back of the waist belt, but the extra strap takes the overwhelming majority of that wear.

[Scott McCrea]

"estimating a bit..." LOL

What on your Omni is eating webbing? Is it a Triact?

My hunch is that the dyneema won't offer much more protection in those areas, but Petzl is usually pretty good about following function instead of form.

My 1996 Superavanti still goes on every trip with me.

[Jeff Bartlett]

What on your Omni is eating webbing? Is it a Triact?

No, it's the SL. I suspect it's the hinge pin that the gate swivels upon doing most of the damage, it's on that side.

OK, OK, so I keep a caving log... I just don't want to overstate the accuracy of those figures. But it's definitely instructive when examining the lifespan of certain components. :)

[Scott McCrea]

What on your Omni is eating webbing? Is it a Triact?

No, it's the SL. I suspect it's the hinge pin that the gate swivels upon doing most of the damage, it's on that side.

I'd fix that first. I've never heard of that happening. File it smooth? Or, is it defective? Or, maybe Chinese?

[Jeff Bartlett]

I'd fix that first. I've never heard of that happening. File it smooth? Or, is it defective? Or, maybe Chinese?

I don't think it's any of these things. I just think it has the capacity to abrade the adjacent fabric more than the totally-smooth corner of a Maillon-Rapide. This photo illustrates it well enough (click to zoom):



EDIT: Am I seriously the only person whose harness wears in that spot? This is the second harness, from different manufacturers, to do so.

[Anonymous_Coward]

I use a Fractio but the metal rings chew holes in my shirt. So, I can't recommend it either.

[Jeff Bartlett]

I use a Fractio but the metal rings chew holes in my shirt. So, I can't recommend it either.

Pics or it didn't happen

[Scott McCrea]

I've been using a screw lock Omni since they came out with wear issues. 90% of the people I cave with use them, too.

The reason I don't use a Fractio is because at one of my first vertical lessons, my instructor got his belly fat pinched between the ring and half round. He cried. Sorry, no pics.

[Amazingracer]

I use an Omni just like Jeff and my 2007 Superavanti is showing the same wear spots that Jeff took pictures of.

I also have a wear spot on the left leg attachment where the buckle has started to cut the webbing of the leg loop.
My superavanti will be replaced very soon, so Im as eager about this topic as Jeffrey.

[Scott McCrea]

I just checked my Omni. I do feel some sharp edge where you said. But my harness has no wear. Full disclosure, I am notoriously easy on gear.

Off the top of my head, some possible causes for your wear... Omni is upside down. Harness is upside down. Harness loop is twisted (this is common). Harness belt loop (goes around waist) is not tight enough. It should be super-tight—difficult to connect the Omni to the opposite side. Scoliosis.

[Amazingracer]

Harness is upside down.

This is more than likely Jeff's issue.

[NZcaver]

Weird. I use an Omni Triact with a Petzl Rapide harness (which is old enough for me not to disclose how long I've owned it), and have never any significant wear of the attachment loops. Aside from being notoriously easy on my gear, the material protecting the loop is also different from the stuff in Jeff's photos. Mine has that tough rubbery-feeling material which is sometimes used to prevent abrasion damage on harness leg loops.

The only logical reason I can think for changing abrasion protection to a material less abrasion resistant is planned obsolescence. I suppose you could try finding an old harness instead.

[Jeff Bartlett]

The only logical reason I can think for changing abrasion protection to a material less abrasion resistant is planned obsolescence. I suppose you could try finding an old harness instead.

Shouldn't the Dyneema be MORE abrasion resistant than my 2010 harness as pictured above? I mean, it's Dyneema, right?

Aside from being notoriously easy on my gear

I believe I have been accused of the opposite. Many times. It's worth noting I switched to the Omni after ruining two half-rounds.

This is more than likely Jeff's issue.

Actually, the harness is right-side-up, but I'M upside down. Does that make a difference?

Scoliosis.

Ha! It could be a factor of almost always climbing right-footed when I'm against a wall, too. Actually, here's my guess -- when I have a heavy pack (Lech camp trips, etc), I always clip it to the right maillon attachment, and that's the one that wears. DING DING DING DING, WE HAVE A WINNER. That has to be it, right? Carabiner with a heavy thing on it jangling around in there and pinching the fabric against the Omni?

Also worth noting that I flipped the loop inside out to take that photo, which is why it looks a little funny in the picture.

[Scott McCrea]

Sounds plausible and reasonable. Does Kyle do the same?

[Amazingracer]

Im not hanging heavy Lech packs from my attachment strap.

Im not sure what side(s), mine rubs. Ill look when I get home.