BMS Micro Rack VS. Petzl Simple

[chh]

6-bar racks are fine for efficient changeovers IF you do them differently than how you learned with shorter devices.

Rebelays? Never had a problem with a 6-bar rack. The whole "6-bar racks not good for rebelays" is a myth perpetuated by the short device people IMO. If the rebelay loop in the rope was too short, you might have issues with the 6-bar, but that is more of a rigging problem than a descender problem.

Agreed on both counts. I mentioned the additional time involved in certain rope maneuvers as an comparason for someone below the other end of the size/weight scale where a rack wasn't always the most user friendly option. Just trying to get wheels turning is all. The rack may well be the best option for taller or heavier folk and is greatly variable, but that doesn't necessarily make it the best choice. I think when we start adopting "The Way", whatever way that is, it threatens our creativity a little. Creativity being, above any piece of gear we will ever have, what will get us through a potential tight spot.

But, like some people are eternal optimists, I'm an eternal devil's advocate. That and right now I'm on my back slightly stoned on muscle relaxants and pain meds after an injury. I'll take what distraction I can get

[Anonymous_Coward]

a mini rack would kick ass on trips like McBrides, but can you do 2 ropes through a mini rack? ......Also, ive only used a mini rack once, with the top hyper bar. I didnt have a 2nd hyper bar on it, but how is that used?

When canyoneering, our crew normally rigs with a biner block, so you can rappel SRT but still pull the rope down. However, some pulls are problematic with a biner attached, and you risk getting everything stuck when the biner gets caught on a root, crack, etc. So on these difficult pulls, the last person will normally take the biner out and rappel DRT (double rope technique). Most of us use micro-racks, so we have gotten some experience double roping with them. I am sure this is not what the manufacturer would recommend, as there is some rub on the frame. We don't really do it often enough for that to be much of an issue.

That said, we have found that it is easy to double rope rappel with 8 and 9mm rope. The hyperbar is functional and effective as well, although not usually needed for friction when you are dealing with two ropes. The 9mm rope rubs the frame enough for my taste, so not sure I would try 10 or 11mm DRT.

Although I for some reason like having the 2nd hyperbar, I have really only used it for two situations. One is for the easy, quick and dirty, soft lock-off that NZ mentions. Just wrap everything around a couple of times and hold it. This is helpful for crossing lips, etc.

The other way I have used it is for really fast, wet skinny rope. You can go around the upper hyperbar twice in this way. When 8mm is wet, sometimes this is a good way to go. I would still always have the brake end come back down instead of up, but that's just me. Oh, looks like NZ mentioned that too. Guess I'll stop agreeing with you now, Jansen. Don't want it to become a habit.