by Bill Putnam » Aug 9, 2010 2:24 pm
Regarding chest roller position in general: I agree that for most people, high is good and higher is better, because it keeps you more upright and therefore makes your climbing more efficient. But it does seem to cause more strain on my lower back when it is higher - I have noticed that myself. Guess I need to hit the crunches and build core strength.
On a related note, my solution to the problem of finding a good rest position for the Mitchell/Ropewalker systems (one that that does not use a floating cam above the roller or the necessity to clip on a third ascender before stopping to rest) has been twofold.
First, avoid stopping to rest. This is the method Bill Cuddington recommends. Climb at a pace that you can maintain for the entire climb without having to stop and catch your breath. Train so that over time this pace increases. I have been working on this for several years, and was doing well until I put on some extra weight recently. More training, less beer, and no second helpings should help get me back into fighting trim.
Second, if you are a mere mortal such as myself, and you sometimes wind up being forced to stop a few times on a long climb at Fern, Ellisons, Whitesides, Bridge Day, or Golondrinas, try wearing your Croll-type ascender below the roller while using your Mitchell or Ropewalker system. When you need to rest, just stop climbing and sit. The Croll is very efficient at capturing your progress, and it gives a very comfortable rest position when wearing a chest roller. When you are ready to resume climbing, just go.
I have been doing this since 1981 (used to use a Gibbs rather than a Croll) and find that it has several advantages over the other methods typically used with the Ropewalker or Mitchell systems. It's more comfortable, more efficient, and less complicated than floating a third ascender above the roller, attaching a third ascender at rest stops, adding a safety/rest sling from the upper Mitchell ascender to the seat harness, or sitting on a safety/rest sling connecting the knee-level ascender to the seat harness.
An added benefit is that it allows you to easily convert from either system to the Frog system for negotiating lips, re-belays, or change-overs. Mitchell users just open the roller and remove the rope and your upper ascender sling, and voila - you are Frogging! Ropewalker users will need to attach an ascender with Frog foot loop. You probably already carry a third ascender anyway, and the foot loop can be carried tucked away on the back of your harness until needed. You do need something to keep the Croll running smoothly as you climb. I just wear my Croll chest harness under the roller harness - some people bungee the Croll to the chest roller harness.
Bill
Bill Putnam, NSS 21117 RL/FE
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