Wireless (radio) shutter release...

[Darklight]

One of the big problems I've had with recent digital cameras is a lack of electronic cable release capable of "bulb" exposure. That is, something that can be used to lock the camera open. Some cameras have no capability for bulb, or only have a maximum exposure setting. I had been accustomed to using a combination of self timer and a long (seconds long) exposure to capture flash bulb shots, ala

http://www.pbase.com/darklightimagery/image/34373617/original

My later cameras had the ability to open and shut the shutter via a press or two from an IR remote. But, you had to do this in front of the camera, and close to it (within range of the beam). Not a good alternative. Recently, I purchased an Olympus E-3 that has a dedicated cable release socket (finally) so I am looking forward to this.

I wondered how nice it would be to be able to lock the shutter open and be in the shot (I'm kind of vain like that;-) without having to walk forward in the dark to get into position. I found this neat little wireless radio remote, that has gotten good reviews:

http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/home.php?cat=285

Bought one last night for about $41 shipped/insured. They make several models depending on make/model. Of course, your camera has to have a cable socket. I anticipate now being able to open the shutter from a distance and be useful in firing bulbs in the shot. This may be nothing new to some imagers here, but I thought I'd post the links. I'll report back after I get one, but would like to hear from anyone who uses one (or something similar).

Hopefully no more running forward to get into my own shots!

[hunter]

Hey Darklight,
Definitely let us know how it goes. I see they have one for my camera for 25$ which is on par with the IR remote I got. I'd be particularly interested in knowing if it works at 40ft or so.

James

[Bob Thrun]

Just how do these remote releases attach to the shutter release of the camera? A cable release socket was mentioned. If the remote simply screws into the cable socket, that would make it nearly universal for film cameras with mechanical shutters. If that is the case, then why are the remotes sold for specific cameras?

Are we going back to the future? At one time solenoids were made to remotely trip the shutters of Speed Graphics. The switch was a button on the flashgun.

[NZcaver]

Just how do these remote releases attach to the shutter release of the camera? A cable release socket was mentioned. If the remote simply screws into the cable socket, that would make it nearly universal for film cameras with mechanical shutters. If that is the case, then why are the remotes sold for specific cameras?

Are we going back to the future? At one time solenoids were made to remotely trip the shutters of Speed Graphics. The switch was a button on the flashgun.

Darklight is talking about an electronic cable release socket, which is different to the old style mechanical one you're probably thinking of. Hence the different RF receivers needed for different cameras - click on the link in his post and all will be revealed.

A reasonably cheap RF remote seems like a nice idea for cave photography. Unfortunately my Olympus digital doesn't have a remote socket, so the RF option is out for me (until I get a different camera). At least I have the Olympus IR remote if needed.

[Bob Thrun]

Yhe original post in this thread mentioned a "cable socket". This, to me, means it is for the traditional mechanical cable release. After drilling down another level, I find that the vedor uses the term "shutter release port". I am not familiar with this since my camera does not have such a thing.

[adleedy]

We have talked about Using RF to remotely set off dslrs before, which would enable you to set it off from hundreds of feet away.

[Realms]

if you happen to have a camera with a IR only option then its still no biggie. Simply buy a IR remote and hack it so that you place the tigger contacts from a RF reciever (this should be a continuity loop-no volts) to the switch contacts in the IR remote. Strap the IR remote on your camera by the IR port and your all set. No biggie They make some really small ones like those used to lock/unlock you car.

Take it a step further and get a multichannel setup and control all your Strobes/Bulbs/SIT modules what have you. No more accidents from the flashes of others cameras setting off your slaves and total independant contol of each and every source.

The next step- WIFI
Its comming....

Nathan

[adleedy]

if you happen to have a camera with a IR only option then its still no biggie. Simply buy a IR remote and hack it so that you place the tigger contacts from a RF reciever (this should be a continuity loop-no volts) to the switch contacts in the IR remote. Strap the IR remote on your camera by the IR port and your all set. No biggie They make some really small ones like those used to lock/unlock you car.

Take it a step further and get a multichannel setup and control all your Strobes/Bulbs/SIT modules what have you. No more accidents from the flashes of others cameras setting off your slaves and total independant contol of each and every source.

The next step- WIFI
Its comming....

Nathan

This is the conversation i was reffering to in my post, Glad you chipped in realms I just remembered having the conversation and not exactly what took place

[Wm Shrewsbury]

I purchased a garage door remote control unit for $20 about 5 years ago from a discount place, maybe Radio Shack. The "key-fob" had two buttons for a 2-car garage door, and the remote had two seperate on/off places to tie your doors in to. By mounting a couple of red LEDs in the boxed up unit, I was able to take a spare electronic cable release, close all three wires that needed to be crossed to actuate the camera, and keep them crossed until I hit my button again. The "second door" to fire off my electronic flash, allowing me to get change bulbs in the dark, get ready, then fire it off again if needed. Even on very low power (1/128) my firefly 2's would go off easily. I could walk up to about 100 feet away. The LEDs let me know if the camera lens was open or the flash (2 LEDs side by side to tell the difference) was on the "fire when ready" side. Worked beautifully!

Wm Shrewsbury
NSS 22677 RL, FE

[Darklight]

Just received shipment of the GadgetInfinity wireless remote for my E-3. Although I have not had a good chance to run it through its paces, so far I like! In the house, it works flawlessly to about 25 feet from the camera (not far I know, but about right for me). The bulb function I especially like; one press opens and a second closes.

Overall feel is what I'd expect from a cheap item, and I may open her up and try and cave-proof it some. Also, the transmitter antenna is of the old walkie-talkie type--metal sectional. I would have preferred an internal or even a wire.

Once I get to play with it more, I'll follow up here...