Serv-Light First Look

[YuccaPatrol]

Thanks Joe and potholer for the info on connectors. I'll have to keep my eyes out for a Petzl Zoom to scavenge the battery box. . . .

[potholer]

Looking at the specs for the 3-cell lithium pack above, I don't think the undervoltage protection is anything to worry about, at least when it comes to a light suddenly cutting out.

Assuming the Serv-light uses linear regulation (as seems reasonably likely), if the low-voltage cutout is indeed 2.4V, then long before that's reached, the LEDs will be extremely dim, assuming they're lit at all.

The zoom boxes I use are the old ones (2-piece, rigid), not the later rubbery ones.

[Tim White]

Go with the Powerpole connectors! We use the on the Chattanooga/Hamilton Count Cave Rescue Team's cave radios, as well as a number of other items. I know a number of folks that use them for hammer drill. They hold up well to cave abuse.

[YuccaPatrol]

Go with the Powerpole connectors!

I just did some searching on these and found this very informative page on the proper installation of these connectors. It has great photos showing all the incorrect ways I would have done it as well as the correct methods. . . . .

http://www.westmountainradio.com/supportrr.htm

[driggs]

I know this is a bit off the topic of the Serv-Light itself, but jharman2 wrote that he was planning to use Deans connectors to connect to a battery. (Doesn't the Serv-Light come with its own battery pack?) Unless you've already used Deans connectors, I suggest you don't. I was persuaded to use them on the grounds that they are well-regarded by the model flying community. They (i) have virtually no contact resistance, (ii) can take the large currents needed by model motors, (iii) are small, and (iv) they are easily replaced because they have simple solder connections. Although they are excellent electrically, as a result of (i), they grip so well, and their small size (iii), means that getting them apart (to change over batteries) with wet gloves or muddy hands underground, is very difficult. And if your lamps use leds, (ii) is irrelevant.

Joe, are you sure that you're not confusing the WS Deans Micro (used for RC planes) with the WS Deans Ultra (used for RC cars)? The Deans Ultra is a bombproof, solid, heavy-duty connector. I just purchased a pack of them to replace the terrible stock connectors on my Stenlight, and I have no doubt that they'll hold up well in-cave. Pro RC car racers will attest that Deans connectors are worth the money.

[jharman2]

Looking at the specs for the 3-cell lithium pack above, I don't think the undervoltage protection is anything to worry about, at least when it comes to a light suddenly cutting out.

Assuming the Serv-light uses linear regulation (as seems reasonably likely), if the low-voltage cutout is indeed 2.4V, then long before that's reached, the LEDs will be extremely dim, assuming they're lit at all.

The zoom boxes I use are the old ones (2-piece, rigid), not the later rubbery ones.

Nice catch. I agree after looking at the Tenergy site. The pack I used consisted of 2 18650s in series and had a cutout voltage of 6V. The parallel pack has a cutout voltage of 2.4 as you mentioned. Should work fine with the Serv. My Sten did not like the 6V cutout and died ABRUPTLY with the series pack.

[potholer]

That's one possible problem with buck regulators on multiple-cell packs - they can keep sucking out the power until the pack says 'no'.
With linear regulation off a single battery, a graceful-tail -off is reasonably likely.

I was a bit surprised by the 2.4V cutoff - I had an impression that cutoffs were generally higher than that - more around the 3V level, where the LED might well still be giving reasonable output, but I may just be misremembering. I should go back and reread the appropriate threads on candlepowerforums about the implications of different cutoffs.

[YuccaPatrol]

I should go back and reread the appropriate threads on candlepowerforums about the implications of different cutoffs.

If you do, please translate the technical electronics details for someone like me.

[Mark620]

I was a bit surprised by the 2.4V cutoff - I had an impression that cutoffs were generally higher than that - more around the 3V level, where the LED might well still be giving reasonable output, but I may just be misremembering. I should go back and reread the appropriate threads on candlepowerforums about the implications of different cutoffs.

implications - Cut-offs below 2.75V on a rechargable Li-ion is not recommended.
at lower voltages chemical changes ocur in the battery that are not reversed when recharged...
1. lower capacities and 2. possible battery fires when recharged.

There is a new Li-ion battery out with lower voltages and smaller capacities (for a given size)
that may not have the problem stated above.

[Mark620]

3.6V Li-ion Rechargeable battery (this is Nominal Voltage)
Full charge is 4.20 Volts and "Empty" is 3.00 Volts
Voltages below and above these cause damage to the battery.

Relative Capacity based on open circuit voltage.
100% = 4.20V
90% = 4.00V
80% = 3.95V
70% = 3.92V
60% = 3.87V
50% = 3.82V
40% = 3.79V
30% = 3.77V
20% = 3.74V
10% = 3.68V
5% = 3.45V
0% = 3.00V

Note : Double all Voltages for a Sten Battery

[adleedy]

recieved my serv-light last week, and just finished attaching the cable to my battery box, an adapted pelican 1010 case. definitely a bombproof looking setup. Ill post pictures soon.

[micbec]

recieved my serv-light last week, and just finished attaching the cable to my battery box, an adapted pelican 1010 case. definitely a bombproof looking setup. Ill post pictures soon.

How long did you have to wait to get one? They have put me on a waiting list :(

[adleedy]

from the time i ordered it till it arrived was about 4 weeks.








Pros:
housing appears to be bombproof
Completely waterproof
Cable is VERY rugged
Very bright
I like the switch

Cons:
Somewhat bulky battery box (my fault)
You may not like the switch.

[YuccaPatrol]

Well maybe it wouldn't be so bulky if you made a battery box that didn't have to contain both the battery pack and that mini Glock. . . .

How long did you have to wait to get one? They have put me on a waiting list :(

When I ordered mine earlier this month, I was told that I was the very last order he was accepting for the time being since he didn't want people to have to wait too long to receive their lamps.

I am so anxiously awaiting delivery of my Serv-Light. I expect to have it early to mid January.

I have been coating my battery packs with that plasti-dip liquid rubber stuff and hope to save weight by going with the Sten-style of a loose battery pack attached to the helmet. . . . .

I contacted the manufacturer of the Plasti-Dip and they suggested I use their Liquid Tape product instead of the Plasti-Dip because it is a bit better with electrical equipment. However, I don't feel as if I am getting a very thick coating of rubber, but have no real way of measuring it. I'll just keep brushing on coats of this stuff until the bottle is gone. It sure does seem like a very durable coating, so I am happy about that.

[VACaver]

from the time i ordered it till it arrived was about 4 weeks.








Pros:
housing appears to be bombproof
Completely waterproof
Cable is VERY rugged
Very bright
I like the switch

Cons:
Somewhat bulky battery box (my fault)
You may not like the switch.

Al...how soon before you post a pic of you in a neckbrace?