I just noticed these Petzl Omni's on IMO's webpage. I really disdane screwing together the regular halfrounds, and i'd hate to pay $33-$38 for a carabiner...
any thoughts, yay or nay? Seems like a nifty device tho...
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steelwool wrote:I own a Petzl "Omni" Tri-Act ... The auto locking one. I've had it about 3 months and I have had no major problems with it. Some times I have to help the auto locking mechanism a little to get it to fully lock. It is also very important that you orientate any half round in the correct direction.
I assume you mean with it oriented so the gate doesn't unscrew when you're ascending (since the rope often slides against the gate, just under the chest ascender). If so, then the way I have mine oriented (see my last photo) is not correct.
With the auto-lock, the first unlocking action is to push sideways against a spring - and only then can it be turned. I suppose it could still unlock itself purely by rope rub, but I would think it's very unlikely.
steelwool wrote:...I also find that it is easier to see that the device is completely closed with normal because you can see the pin that locks it. In your way the pin faces you. Once the device get dirty, the auto lock wont want to close. This makes it important to see the pin. With my orientation I can easy inspect that the device is fully closed.
Mike W wrote:I've used the two types of Omni since they came out, and was initially attracted to the Tri-act ( auto lock ) version. After a couple of months of use mainly in clean wet caves, but occasionally in mud, it stopped auto-locking properly. To cut a long story short, the UK importer found that overnight soaking in hot detergent solution and determined rinsing would improve things. However, it now seems sensitive to the merest dash of mud, so I changed to the screw version. The problem seems to be that the triple action mechanism includes a plastic sleeve, which either becomes roughened, or mud particles become embedded in it. The Petzl Twist-lock mechanism ( used on the Freino braking carabiner ) doesn't have this plastic sleeve and is totally reliable under serious abuse.
However, the screw version is now a firm favourite with me. A few points:-
The alloy Maillon takes 16 full turns to open, the Omni takes 2 and a bit.
If you forget to screw up a Maillon, things can fall off, with the Omni the gate is still closed.
The Omni is bigger than the Maillon, and has more room for gear.
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